We Found Lincoln in a Hopeless Place

So earlier this week, my host mother Vicky gave me some bad news: the brand new apartment that we were living in needed a whole bunch of repairs, and the building manager told her to leave the house for a few weeks as they tore up the floors and fixed the bathrooms. Needless to say, that wouldn´t be a very good environment for a host student, and so I had to move into a new home this weekend.

I´m now living in another part of the city, closer to PUCE as well as the Mariscal, the city´s chief bar-restaurant-tourist hub. My host mother´s name is Isabel, and she´s as nice as can be. Her large apartment is full of books, art, and photos of her children. There´s another woman living here named Doña Alus, who is originally from Medellin, Colombia but came to Quito to escape the drug wars there. They met through their kids, and Doña Alus lives in the house in exchange for cooking, cleaning, and washing clothes. It seems like a lovely home so far and I´m looking forward to spending the next couple months here.

Oh, a couple more things about the house. Not only do I have a killer view out the two large windows of my room, but I also have my own small balcony. And while Isabel doesn´t work, she does cook pastries and other goodies to supply local businesses.

And finally, last but certainly not least, while walking around my new neighborhood the other day, I realized it was fate that brought me there. Not only was ¨Calle Abraham Lincoln¨ about a block away, but close by was ¨Plaza Abraham Lincoln,¨ a large traffic circle featuring a Lincoln bust. I´d love to do some more research as to when this was constructed and why, but for now, I´m just happy to be here.

Feb. 14 Update: Here’s an article on the Lincoln statue, in Spanish. It was erected in 1959 as part of Quito’s revamping efforts for a large international conference. The statue was donated by a committee of Americans living in Quito. Fun fact: the Ecuadorian historian mentioned in the article as attending the re-dedication ceremony in 2009, Dr. Carlos Landázuri, is now my history professor at La Universidad Catolica.

 

Pics of the View and My New Neighbor:

Delicia, delicia, assim você me mata

Above are the words of the chorus of one of the most popular songs in Ecuador (I’m obsessed. Link here.), “Ai Se Eu Te Pego,” by Michel Teló. It’s in Portuguese, it’s a little bit dirty, but it’s ridiculously catchy and it’s been turned into a reggaeton remix by just about every DJ in Quito. But I digress.

Things are really starting to shape up here. I finally was able to track down the theater group at PUCE, and I got permission from the professor to participate with the more advanced theater group, which may mean landing a part in the spring production. We’ll see. I spent one afternoon doing some exercises with them, and it was pretty much the same stuff we pretentious theater people do in the States: “I want you to choose an animal and walk around the space as that animal…” I also participated in a few improv games, which was a bit difficult because of my Spanish skills. I found a solution, however: in a scene that was supposed to be a quiet meditation class, I chose to enter as an obnoxious gringo trying to find a salsa class.

I woke up early on Saturday morning to go to a nearby town called Zambiza to teach English to kids in the local school (A friend of a friend told me to show up at a bus stop to go teach English. So we went.). My friend Wes and I had absolutely no idea what was going on, and we ended up sort of just greeting the kids and telling them we’d be seeing them every few Saturdays. After the session, however, there were a few boys still hanging around, and we asked them if they wanted to play frisbee. I’ll say, there’s almost nothing more fun than playing Ultimate Frisbee with a bunch of fourteen-year-old Ecuadorian boys. I was totally exhausted by the end of it, but it was a blast. One of the kids brought his guitar out, and we sat playing songs in English and Spanish for like an hour. Can’t wait to go back there.

Finally, I went on another adventure with the PUCE hiking group, this time climbing to the two peaks of the volcano Pasachoa, to the south-west of Quito. I enjoyed this hike more than the hike up Pichincha a couple weeks ago, since a) it was less intense and b) there were more Ecuadorians and less gringos on the hike, which meant speaking more Spanish and getting to know more new people. I won’t say the hike was easy though, it was definitely exhausting and we had to do some clambering over bare rock. There’s something exhilarating about walking with a steep hill on your left and a steep, foggy abyss on your right. Hiking to both summits was totally worth it though, the views were absolutely killer.

Always something to do and somewhere new to explore in Quito. The first picture is me sliding down the steepest slide I have ever seen, it’s attached to an old airplane that sits in the middle of El Parque Carolina. I’m shocked that children are allowed to ride this thing. Next is Miguel, Doug and Wes being pretentious on Calle La Ronda, a cute and entertaining street in Quito’s historic center. After that, Pasachoa.

Vamos a la Playaaaa

The other gringos and I decided it was time to get out of Quito and explore the country a bit, so we headed out to a beach town called Atacames this weekend, in the province of Esmeraldas. On Thursday afternoon, we wandered into a bus station and bought $8 tickets for a seven hour trip to the coast, leaving that night.

We arrived in the dark at around 5:30 AM, hopped on some janky motorbike taxis, and found a pretty reasonable $5 per person per night hotel a block or so from the beach (in the showers we found both cold water AND cockroaches). After a nap, we hit the beach. The weather was a bit cloudy, but still far warmer than Quito, and not raining. The water was warm and the waves were great for body surfing. We paid $2/seat for a cabana and relaxed all day. Vendors came by all day offering fruit, drinks, ice cream, hair braiding, temporary tattos, and massages (I think I ate three or four cups full of mango slices. SO good.). My favorite vendor was an Afro-Ecuadorian man who tried to sell some sort of coconut oil to make my white friends look tanner. His first two lines, “We’ll look like family members” and “You’ll look like Barack Obama” were met with tepid response. He then tried, “You’ll look like Michael Jackson,” which is what I think lost him the sale.

Ultimately, the Ecuadorian coast has a very different feel from Quito and the Sierra. There’s definitely a larger presence of Afro-Ecuadorians in the coast, and the area is a lot poorer. The run-down buildings and poorly paved streets of Atacames helped me to develop a new perspective on the country. Even though Quito may seem poor and backwards in some places, it still contains one of the largest concentrations of wealth in the country.

A few pics of Atacames:

Tags: barack obama, coconut oil, ecuadorian coast, fruit drinks, mango slices, temporary tattos

Casually Three Miles Above Sea Level

So the past week consisted of getting familiar with my classes and starting to make new Ecuadorian friends. I’m super stoked that I’m taking a class on 19th-century Ecuadorian history and the others seem interesting as well. I’m able to understand what my professors are talking about most of the time, which I’m pleasantly surprised by. I’ve also started to meet more Ecuadorians through classes, and just by hanging around campus. I get to practice my Spanish, they get to practice their English, I ask them if they want to hang out, and they say yes, as long as I bring gringas. It works out nicely.

This weekend was our first real free weekend, and we decided to stay in the city rather than go for an excursion to the beach or elsewhere. On Saturday, we went with the local university’s hiking group to climb Rucu Pichincha, the summit of the mountain directly west of the city of Quito. First, we rode the Teleferiqo, which is one of the world’s largest gondolas, from about 10,000 feet to around 13,000 feet. From there, we had about a 3 hour hike to the summit, eventually clambering over some very steep rocks to get to the summit (el cumbre). The summit was covered in snow, and the clouds prevented us from seeing very far, but it was a great feeling to be up there. Also, on the way back, I met my first llama. Her name was Linda.

Also visited La Mitad del Mundo on Sunday, the tacky tourist attraction marking the equator. There’s a big tower marking the spot, surrounded by all sorts of small museums, displays, and chachki shops. It’s one of those things you have to do in Quito and then blog about.

Also, I remembered to bring my digital camera this weekend.

It’s All About the Cushqui, Guagua

I spent the past week attending both orientations and meetings at both IES and at Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Ecuador (PUCE), the Ecuadorian university where I’ll be taking several classes. While obviously I have a lot of new and exciting challenges ahead of me, the classic back-to-school dilemmas were still there: “Why are all the good classes scheduled at the same time?” “Why do notebooks cost $7.00?” “Do I really want school to start?” I ultimately decided to challenge myself and take three classes at PUCE: Language and Aesthetics of Cinema, Urban Anthropology, and History of Ecuador in the 19th Century. IES gave us a few basic Spanish lessons, though this was much less than I would have expected. My favorite part was learning words in Quichua that have become part of Ecuadorian Spanish. For example, “guagua” (pronounced “wa-wa”) refers to a baby, “cushqui” means money, and my personal favorite, “chuchaqui,” is what we in the States call a hangover (which is what happens after a night of “chupando,” and being “chumado”).

The week ended nicely with a program-planned trip to the province of Imbabura, a few miles north of Quito (Quito is located in the Pichincha province). We got to visit the Otavalo market, home to a wide variety of indigenous arts, crafts, and clothing, as well as the usual junk found at a flea market. Despite all of the salesmanship and haggling going on in the large outdoor market, Otavalo seemed to have a very relaxed feel, which made it a great environment to shop in. After doing some haggling of my own, ended up buying a shirt, a small messenger bag, and an Andean-style pan flute. The other highlight was a short boat ride around Lake Cuicocha, near the town of Cotacachi. It’s a very neat looking lake that has filled up the crater of a volcano. As a result, it is surrounded by steep rock edges instead of beaches. It was just the type of stunning natural beauty that I came to Ecuador to see. Below, a picture of the beautiful terrain that I was forced to stare at on the bus all day, as well as the boat full of gringos at Lake Cuicocha. If you’ll notice, I’m the fool in the back left snapping photos with my film camera, which is why I don’t have a lot of pictures to put up here. These photos are courtesy of my good friend Doug Wulsin, who’s doing his own awesome blog at dougwulsin.wordpress.com.

Blame It On the A-A-A-A-A-A-Altidude, Baby

So it’s been an enjoyable first few days in Quito. After my first night here, I woke up in the morning with the absolute worst headache I have ever had in my life. I was not sure why, but I assumed it was some combination of lack of sleep and lack of caffeine. However, even after having some coffee in the morning, it was still terrible. “Tengo dolor de cabeza,” I told my host mother. “Es por la altura,” she responded. I had totally forgotten that I was about 9,000 ft above sea level and that altitude sickness affects just about everyone when they first arrive. Though my headache got better with some Advil, I’m still acclimating to the altitude. I experienced shortness of breath a few times, during short walks, and especially during the walking tour of Old Town Quito that we took yesterday.

That being said, it was great to get out and explore the city a little, even if I was huffing and puffing a bit. After being cooped up in our study abroad center listening to presentations for a day and a half, all of us wanted to go out and explore the city a bit. A friend and I walked through El Parque Carolina, a large park, playground, and botanical garden very close to IES’s building. The park is huge and full of activity. Among small ponds, fountains, and sport courts were a small skate park, an abandoned airplane which has been converted into a play place for children, and plenty of spaces for Ecuadorian lovers to nuzzle under the trees.

We also got a chance to take a tour of the city’s historic center, full of colonial-era buildings and spectacular churches. We were allowed to climb onto the roof and belltower of La Iglesia La Merced and got into a little bit of trouble when some of the members of our group kept ringing the main bell of the church (full disclosure: I did ring the bell, but before our guide told us to stop). There was some confusion because the ringing of the bell generally means that a Mass is starting. We also saw the much-touted Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesus, with a grand interior covered almost completely in gold. While I was certainly impressed that such an edifice could be created, I found the interior to be somewhat tacky. The goal of the Spanish seemed to be to stuff as much gold as they could into the space without focusing on aesthetic taste: probably an accurate representation of the excesses of that long-forgotten empire.

This morning, I went to church at the Basilica del Voto Nacional, in the Old Town. It’s actually one of Quito’s newer large churches, as it is only one hundred or so years old. It’s built in a Gothic style, but instead of gargoyles, it has turtles, lizards, jaguars and other animals native to Ecuador. After some confusion about when Mass started, my friend Sahil and I caught the second half of a Mass and then climbed the belltower of the church, giving us a great view of the city.

¡Estoy aquí!

So, after weeks of denial and distraction, it finally hit me last night that I was going to be living in Ecuador for the next four and a half months. As I got in my dad’s car to drive to LAX, I started to freak out in my head and my palms were dripping with sweat. Thoughts like “Your Spanish stinks,” “You know nothing about Quito,” and “Get ready for dysentery” floated through my head. Strangely, though, after I dealt with some visa-related confusion and went through security, the nervousness passed and I got super pumped. My unfamiliarity with Quito and nervousness about speaking Spanish turned from fears to spectacular opportunities. But I’m still a little concerned about dysentery.

I left at 12:30 AM from LAX to San Jose, Costa Rica, with a short stopover in Guatemala City. I slept a little on the plane and watched some horrible Selena Gomez film dubbed into Español, which made it way more tolerable. (Side note: whoever does the Spanish voiceovers for Cory Monteith sounds just like him.) I also made my first Latin American friend, a Costa Rican lawyer and international relations professor named Carlos. We talked about politics, history, and U.S.- Latin American relations. He told me that he had studied American Presidents, and he told me that Lincoln was his favorite, which made me very happy (#duh #ganando). I didn’t quite know how to say everything that I wanted to say in Spanish, but I felt we understood each other pretty well.

Finally, I arrived in Quito around 2 PM local time. A representative from IES (my study abroad provider) and my homestay mother, Vicky, were there to pick me up. Vicky took me to my home for the next few months, and I was very impressed. It’s a modern, two-bedroom apartment complete with hardwood floors. Vicky’s two children have moved out of the house, and Vicky has been hosting foreign students for almost ten years now. I’m very glad to have someone so friendly and so accustomed to having foreign students around, as it seems to be making my transition much easier.

After almuerzo (lunch, considered the most important meal of the day in Ecuador), Vicky took me with her on some errands around town. I got myself a cheap, pay-as-you-go cell phone and Vicky paid her water bill (I guess you have to go to an office and pay in person if you send it in for two months.) The streets of Quito are fascinating, not only because they’re crooked, crowded, and packed with vendors, but because Ecuadorians, like other people in the developing world, drive like maniacs. Left turns are performed through a combination of waiting and negotiating with oncoming traffic. I saw one car pull onto the left side of the road and drive for about 50 feet before making a left turn onto a side street. So, naturally, I laughed when Vicky made a similar maneuver a few minutes later.

Right now, I’m sitting in a nice, new apartment with a decent view of the city, answering emails, looking up things to do in Quito, and listening to the new Common album. I couldn’t ask for more.

Pics: View from the airport in San Jose, Costa Rica; my new room, view from the apartment during the day, at night.

Tags: ecuador, quito, study abroad

And so it begins…

My name is Michael Salgarolo, and I’m a junior History major at the George Washington University, in Washington, D.C., originally from Los Angeles, California. I’ll be spending the next semester studying Spanish and Ecuadorian culture in Quito, the capital of the Republic of Ecuador. I’ll use this blog to post stories, thoughts, and photos. Stay tuned.

Me, in Cambria, CA, August 2011. I'm kind of a big deal.

Tags: ecuador quito gwu